After our amazing experience with the whales we zipped over to Livingston Island, which had been our destination when we had been getting dressed just 40 minutes ago. Livingston Island hadn't been on our original agenda but our weather had been so incredible that Tim and Rob and Captain Martin had been able to show us more than most visitors got to see in the time we were spending there, so the night before when they asked what we still wanted to see, I (Rachel) said "Elephant seals!", and so we diverted a bit and now here we were. However Livingston Island has more than just Elephant seals. We got to see three species of penguin all nesting together, including one species we hadn't yet seen. And we got to see the amazing Giant Petrels!!
Livingston Island, as part of the South Shetland Islands, is more north than the Antarctic peninsula. It has more rocky land with less snow and ice cover, and generally has (comparatively) milder climates, and so plays host to a greater variety of wildlife. One thing you don't normally think about, but in several of the pictures you'll notice red or green lichen and mosses in small patches on the rocks. Further south there's no moss and very, very little lichen (it can take a century to grow an inch), so even going north this small distance, you can see the effects it has on the local ecology.
We got so many good shots on this excursion that we've split it in to two parts. The first one details the various penguins and chicks, and the second is all about the Elephant seals, so check it out, and stay tuned!
The Welcoming Committee - Arriving on Elephant Island, we were quickly greeted by this cadre of Gentoo penguins fresh from fishing. They followed us over the rocks to rejoin their nesting mates and chicks.
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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I'm Taller! - A Gentoo chick near fledging has almost reached their full size. They won't be able to swim and fend for themselves though until they shed their fuzz and grow a smooth coat of feathers to keep out the water.
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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Here We Come - This penguin parent is leading it's chicks on a feeding chase. When the chicks get to be this size both parents have to go to sea to get enough food to feed them. The chicks huddle up on the shore and wait for their parents to come home with food. In order to know which chicks belong to it, the parent will call out and the chicks will similarly call back when they recognize the parents call. That however is not enough, the parent also leads it's chicks on a bit of a chase to make sure that these chicks are commited to it. Now, if you want to believe that everything is always good for natures' babies, stop reading right here. The second reason for the chase is because two adult penguins are really only capable of rearing one chick to full maturity, but generally have two chicks to hedge their bets. Often one chick will fall to some preditor, but the chase also insure that the stronger faster chick (the one most likely to survive the harsh whether they live in), is always fed first.
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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The Race - Gentoo parents call to their two chicks and run away, forcing the chicks to race after them. Since the parents only have the resources to feed one of the chicks to maturity, they test them with these races and only the winner gets food. As cute as this image is, this is a race for life, a literal survival of the fittest.
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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Fuzzy Little Rocks - Baby Giant Petrels in their rock nest. Somehow saying "Baby Giant Petrels" sounds weird!
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Petrel Take Off - A Giant Petrel taking off from its nest up on the rocks.
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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The Watchers - Giant Petrels on their nests peering down at us.
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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What A Bill - Giant Petrel
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Stretch Kiss - An adolescent chick lets their parent know they're still peckish.
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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Mutual Ecstacy - A pair of Chinstraps express their joy at seeing each other by raising their heads to the sky, flapping their wings in an ecstatic display, and honking as loudly as they can. The closer one just got back from fishing and will care for their chicks, while the farther (dirtier) one will finally get to head to the water and grab some lunch.
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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Our For A Stroll - Gentoo penguin chick out for a stroll. Parents are away, so baby may play!
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Chin Up - A chinstrap penguin on its nest with two chicks. The strap makes them look so regal and proper.
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Grounded. - It's easy to imagine that Mom and Dad aren't all too happy with their chick.
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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Larry, Curely & Fuzzbucket - But you know, his friends call him Moe! Baby Gentoo Penguins.
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Are you sure we're in the right place? - Two Macaroni penguins nest among the Chinstraps. Though rare this far south, it's not uncommon for a few Macaroni to raise their chicks with the Chinstraps, though even here they stick together.
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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Macaroni know they're cool - These two Macaroni menguins, raising their chicks amidst the Chinstrap colony, really stand out.
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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They call me Chinstrap - In this close-up you can get a better idea of how the thin, dense feathers make up the distinctive black line that gives the Chinstraps their name.
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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Now Don't Be Obvious, But There Is This Odd Thing Behind You... I SAID DON'T LOOK!! - Two adolecent penguin chicks hanging out on Elephant Island.
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Yum Yum - A good view of the slightly digested krill that the adult penguin is feeding to its chick.
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Turkey Kisses - Really the chick wants to be fed, but it looks super sweet to think of it that way. Plus I swear that chick looks like a Thanksgiving Turkey the way it's standing.
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Two cute - even as baby chicks, those beaks look like they've got some serious history. Also: AWWW.
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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Mixed Species - In this colony several different specials of Penguin co-exist and raise theour chicks together. Gentoo, Chinstraps, Macaroni and... Tim?
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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I Want My Momma - Baby penguin chick calling out for its parents which are likely out at sea fishing.
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Molting's not much fun. - Right in the middle between a chick and a fledged Penguin, this adolescent is slowly losing their fuzz to reveal their new feathers underneath. The head is the last to molt, leaving the penguin with a frohawk, but that's still a few days away.
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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Me first! Me first! - Two chicks (nearly) tie in the race for food. See how eager the right chick is? Just look at his happy feet.
- Photo by Kevin Fox
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Rookery With A View - View atop a hill of Elephant Island in the South Shetlands.
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Castle In The Clouds - Gentoo and chinstrap penguins raising their chicks on a hill on Elephant Island.
- Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Read the next chapter: Day 10: Hannah Point Part 2: Elephant Seals
Table of Contents:
Introduction: Telling the Story posted Jan 10, 2009
Day 0: Positioning posted Jan 12, 2009
Leaving, on a jet plane posted Jan 12, 2009
Day 1: The Herc posted Jan 15, 2009
Day 1: Penguino posted Jan 16, 2009
Day 2: Chicken posted Jan 17, 2009
Day 2: Leopard posted Jan 19, 2009
Day 2: Snow Day posted Jan 22, 2009
Day 2: Shipwreck posted Jan 26, 2009
Day 2: Totally Tabular posted Jan 27, 2009
Day 3: Gentoo Cute posted Jan 29, 2009
Day 3: Lichen Shag Glacier posted Feb 3, 2009
Day 3: Palmer Station Visit posted Feb 9, 2009
Day 4: Icy Penguins posted Feb 11, 2009
Day 4: Adelie Awesome posted Feb 15, 2009
Day 4: Leopard Seal Attack posted Feb 17, 2009
Day 4: Kayak posted Feb 19, 2009
Day 4: Vernadsky Station Visit posted Feb 23, 2009
Day 4: Vernadsky Sunset posted Feb 25, 2009
Day 5: Antarctic Circle posted Feb 27, 2009
Day 5: Polar Plunge posted Mar 5, 2009
Day 5: Mouth of The Gullet posted Mar 13, 2009
Day 5: Ice Camping posted Mar 18, 2009
Day 6: Flamingos on Ice posted Mar 20, 2009
Day 6: Mountain Climbing posted Mar 24, 2009
Day 6: Ice Textures posted Mar 26, 2009
Day 6: Antarctic New Years posted Apr 2, 2009
Day 7: Crystal Sound Icebreaker posted Apr 9, 2009
Day 7: Abandoned Antarctica: Base W - Part 1 posted Apr 17, 2009
Day 7: Abandoned Antarctica: Base W - Part 2 posted Apr 21, 2009
Day 8: Bird Watching in the Fish Islands posted Apr 23, 2009
Day 8: Icee Day - Part 1 posted May 5, 2009
Day 8: Icee Day - Part 2 posted May 11, 2009
Day 9: Port Lockroy - Base A posted May 20, 2009
Bonus Chapter: Baby Penguins! posted May 21, 2009
Day 9: Antarctic Humpback Whales posted June 3, 2009
Day 9: Dallmann Butt Sliding posted June 11, 2009
Day 10: Birthday Whales posted June 23, 2009
» Day 10: Hannah Point Part 1: The Birds posted July 15, 2009
Day 10: Hannah Point Part 2: Elephant Seals posted July 22, 2009
Day 10: Deception Island - Part 1: Walking on the Moon posted Dec 11, 2009
Day 10: Deception Island - Part 2: The Martian Chronicles of Oz posted Dec 15, 2009
Day 11: Emperor Penguins posted Jan 8, 2010
Day 12: Black and White and Pink All Over posted Aug 4, 2011
More chapters posted every few days...
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