Antarctic Fox - Day 7: Abandoned Antarctica: Base W - Detaille Island

The log of Rachel and Kevin Fox's trip to the Antarctic Peninsula in the Summer of 2008-9

Day 7: Abandoned Antarctica: Base W - Part 2

January 1 - Abandoned British Base W, Detaille Island, the Antarctic Peninsula

This is Part 2 of our visit to Base W. If you haven't seen Part 1, you should start there!

Down from the attic and moving to the back of the base we had a chance to photograph the larders, second barrack room (and library), dining area and kitchen, followed by the surveyor's room, the all-important radio room, and the latrine.

Main Hall

Coming down the ladder from the attic we turn left. Going right would take us back toward the front door from which we have come. After turning left down the hall, windows to the front yard continue on the right, while on the left are larders stacked full with food supplies.

Single Ski - At the foot of the attic ladder were hooks for coats and brackets for skis. Only one ski remained however, leaving me to wonder what became of the second ski? - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

Dollar Scotch Oats - "Food of a Sterling Race" Interestingly, I couldn't read the word 'race' in this photo so I googled 'food of a sterling' and the only result that came back was from somone who had visited Base W 7 years prior! - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

When Antarctica Gives You Lemons... - Supplies left behind on Base W when it was abandoned in 1959. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

Still Taste Good? - I mean they say Catsup can make almost any food taste better right? Not sure about this stuff though. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Read 2 comments

Stewed Steak Casserole - This didn't fare as well as the Dollar Scotch Oats. Throughout the larder we were amazed by the lack of diversity. Then again, these were mostly the things left beforerestocking, so we may be looking at the things they didn't *want* to eat. - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

- - Photo by
Comment on this photo

Estab. 1830 - More sweet pickles. Not sure how these are different than the Navy ones, then again I don't like sweet pickles so I guess I wouldn't understand anyway. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

For The Military Man... - I'm hoping these ones are dill, three kinds of sweet pickles is just silly. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Read 1 comment

Officers Barracks/Library

Between some of the larders on the left of the hall is a door to another room. Two cots and walls lined with books.

Since only two seem to sleep here we assume the occupants were higher ranking than those in the first barracks.

- - Photo by
Comment on this photo

Long Johns - A necessity in the cold Antarctic winters (and summers!) I think they're dry now. - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

- - Photo by
Comment on this photo

Water (Drinking) - I'm sure not drinking any water from these. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

Laughs for Light Moments - It's a long, dark winter... - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

- - Photo by
Comment on this photo

It's Warm Inside - The bookcase, even with its meager offering, struck a note of resonance with its modern-day equivalent: the DVD library at Palmer Station: www.flickr.com/photos/person/3266095128/ - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

Bealby And Your Ships - Selections of books from the Base W library. I'm sure they all got a lot of reading done, espeically when over-wintering. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

Let's Kill Uncle Lionel - ...and other assorted readings. - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

Kitchen

Back in the hall, continuing in the same direction the hall ends and an entry way on the left opens into kitchen. On the right a kitchen table, chests full of supplies and cabinets and counter tops. On the right shelfs on the wall with smaller supplies followed by another archway. A new small hall begins toward the back of the room heading off to the right (same direction as we have been traveling down the main hall, we are just facing the opposite direction now). The stove is situated in an alcove near the back by a window (we think - this detail seems a bit fuzzy).

As the two most dedicated photographers in the expedition, we were naturally the laggards when in an environment like this where every artifact tells a story and ghosts of times past dwell in every nook.

(Kevin writing:) Quite suddenly while photographing the kitchen we realized that we were the last ones in the base. Already a quiet and derelict place, the base took on an altogether weightier silence when the others had left. It's one thing to walk through a place with a small group, pointing and photographing the history laid bare, but it's quite an unexpected force that hits you when you're alone in such a place and internalize not only the lifestyle that existed within it half a century ago, but also the utter stillness and heavy silence that envelops the base day-to-day between the exceedingly rare visit.

Base W had been a working Antarctic survey base for three years, but it had been a deserted outpost with virtually no human contact for fifty years, and when that history hits you it's unexpected and potent.

- - Photo by
Comment on this photo

Soup's On! - Several of the pots were filled with water, presumably from a leaky roof. - Photo by Kevin Fox
Read 1 comment

Kitchen Tools - Countertop tools abandoned in Base W, Antarctica. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

Star Weekly - Hand written at the top, we believe it says the following: "From "Woman" Reader. Miss Kennetts, 8 Elgin Rd. Sutton, Surry." There are a few words we aren't sure about, but that's our best guess. Here is a link to that address on Google maps, the houses seemto have changed since 1959 though: This edition of Star Weekly is from October 4th 1958. Lead articles this week: "I Work At Being A Woman", The Ship That Sailed To Death & A Mother Defends "Going Steady" - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Read 1 comment

It's Nicer To Be Nice! - This edition of Star Weekly Magazine is from April 26, 1958. I just love the cover images. Top Photo "Sturry Kaye in the "Town Crier". Barbara Cook, Gretel. Sadly I can't read the caption under the photo of Hansel, but the text under the headline reads " You might not recognize Hansel and Gretel - They're all dressed up for the atomic age. Page 16" - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Read 2 comments

Tail Wagger (and family) Magazine - "News and Views by Stanley Dangerfield the Television Dog Personality" -- The more things change, the more they stay the same. Triumph would be proud. - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

True Detective - Complete Cases Compiled From Police Records. From December 1959 (I believe its 59, the last number is hard to read due to a few creases, but it looks like a 9). - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

Scotch Fresh Herring - Supplies left behind at Base W in Antarctica. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

Grape=Nuts - Nourishing, Satisfying, Economical Actually, my favorite part of this picture is that in very small print at the bottom edge of the Custard Powder can there's a slogan that reads "Used All Over the World!" Indeed! - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

Pure Essence Flavour - For when you are stuck in Antarctica over winter and you miss the tastes of home. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

There's Always Room for JELLO! - Even in Antarctica! Supplies left behind at Base W since 1959. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Read 2 comments

Pot Rack - The Base W kitchen, abandoned in Antarctica. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

Radio Room

Heading down the new short hall in the back, there are three doors fairly close together. One is on the right and two on the left. The first one on the left is the Radio Room.

Radio Room - The Link Home - Complete with replacement vacuum tubes and master valves! - Photo by Kevin Fox
Read 2 comments

Cartoons and Cartography - Read the whole story of our trip: antarctic.fury.com - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

Instructions for the recording of the occurrence of all seals seen - Pretty detailed instructions. Remember: On return to base, type in duplicate; one copy for F.I.D. Scientific Bureau and the other for base. - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

Latrine/Laundry Room

Heading down the new short hall in the back, there are three doors fairly close together. The only door on the right opens to a laundry room with backdoor to the outside and a side room that is the latrine.

Laundry and Latrine - Nothing like a brisk breeze! - Photo by Kevin Fox
Read 1 comment

Wring Or Wash - They even had a washing machine at Base W, Antarctica. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

Suveyor's Room

Heading down the new short hall in the back, there are three doors fairly close together. Skipping the first two, the last one on the left is the Surveyor's room.

(Kevin writing:) Heeding the guide's call, I left to take some exterior shots before we had to head to the Zodiacs.

(Rachel writing:) I was the last to leave Base W. This is somewhat normal for me as I easily get transfixed by the rooms, and items and can't stop photographing. At one point I was nearly the only person in the base. I knew Kevin was at the other end of the building, I could hear his movements, but at the same time I felt very alone, surrounded by the ghosts of the past. So intensely quiet that every breath almost echoed. It was a surreal experience I will never forget. I did not get to spend as much time as I would have liked the the labs beyond the kitchen, we both could spend days in that hut documenting it and still likely leave feeling we had missed something. Maybe we'll get to go back someday. Maybe by the time we do, very little will be left for us to find or they will have sterilized the hut into a museum causing most of the ghosts to have fled.

Surveyor's Room - At this point I was the last person in the back of the base. Kevin was up near the front door somewhere and then heard Tim yelling to me that we had to leave. I started snapping as quick as I could the rooms that I hadn't even stepped into. This was one of those quick shots. I wish I had had more time to expore this room, it has to be one of my favorites. They have created panarama's on the boards. I believe the strips of paper below the photos will have readings of some kind: distances, mountain heights or snow depths. I believe they are using these to create the topographic map laying on the table. I could be wrong though. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

Pyrene - Fire extinguishers - important in Antactica - you really don't want your base to burn down when you have no way home. That could be an uncomfortable wait till rescue comes. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Read 1 comment

Heading Back To The Ship

Base W In Its Entirety - Quite a stark difference from the modern bases at Palmer and even Vernadsky. Picture a dozen men living here in the pitch black and -40 temeratures over the winter. - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

Shadow of a Ladder - Even outside in the elements this wodden ladder has not degraged much in the 50 years it has sat here. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

View From Base W - Beautiful view of the bay on Detaille Island, from Base W, Antarctica. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

Base W Antenna Tower - This would have to reach hundreds, if not thousands of miles to reach a relay base or the mainland. It was their link to the real world, and to sanity. - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

Yard Waste - It's no toilet on the lawn. Actually not sure what those things are. Old crates, the vented one might be a casing from a generator (Kevin's guess). No real clue. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Read 1 comment

Getting The Shot - Patricia plopped down in the path to get her photos. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

- - Photo by
Comment on this photo

Newlyweds - Aren't they cute. Sara and Brian got married June 2008, just a few months before Kevin and I. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

- - Photo by
Comment on this photo

Antarctic Patricia - I love this shot of Patricia. Not only does she look great, but I love seeing the ice floes an people reflected in her sun glasses. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
Comment on this photo

- - Photo by
Comment on this photo

FISH! - Upon returning to the ship, we were greeted by the galley crew who had taken this huge fish out of the freezer for dinner. They bought it from a fisherman in the Carribbean on the journey down to Antarctica! - Photo by Kevin Fox
Comment on this photo

It's amazing but we actually end our day here as we head out to make some good headway in the evening and overnight as we head back north. It was a much needed evening of rest and yet we were constantly wondering what was in store for us next.

Read the next chapter: Day 8: Bird Watching in the Fish Islands

Table of Contents: