Antarctic Fox - Day 7: Abandoned Antarctica: Base W - Detaille Island

The log of Rachel and Kevin Fox's trip to the Antarctic Peninsula in the Summer of 2008-9

Day 7: Abandoned Antarctica: Base W - Part 1

January 1 - Abandoned British Base W, Detaille Island, the Antarctic Peninsula

Given a few hours of rest after our adventure chasing the Hanse Explorer through ice floes in the Zodiacs we set off on an excursion quite different from any we'd had thus far in Antarctica.

We stopped just off Detaille Island. Our destination: The abandoned British Survey Base W established in 1956 to conduct survey work on the local glaciers and geology, and meteorological study.

At the time that the base was built, the site was chosen in part because of the beautiful sheltered bay, largely free of sea ice. This is a critical feature for Antarctic bases because without access to the open sea the base is entirely cut off from the rest of the world.

Navigating - The bay at Detaille Island is notorious for being iced in solid so that you can't get in to reach Base W. Luckily we are able to make it in with our zodiac boats, but you can see just how much ice we traveled through. It was very bumpy and there needed to be a second crew member on the front of the boat to push us off some of the larger pieces ice and keep us from getting stuck. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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As fate wold have it, Base W's location was its downfall. The year that the base was built turned out to be a particularly mild year in Antarctica, and the bay was very clear of ice. This however turned out to be atypical for this area. Three years later in 1959 the relief ship John Briscoe arrived at the end of the Summer with the base's supplies for the coming overwintering, and they found the bay completely impassable, filled with icebergs that not only made it impossible to unload, but also presented an urgent danger to the ship even staying in the area. The John Briscoe had to get out of there.

The ship sent word that there was no way to deliver the critical overwintering supplies, and the staff of Base W were given just one hour to pack up, make their way to the Briscoe and abandon the base.

Nearly a half-century later in 2004, the British attempted to return to the base with a "Abandoned Base" team whose objective is to either clean up all traces of the base or repair and preserve the abandoned base as a historical site. However again the British were foiled by bad weather and the team found it impossible to unload any gear and they had to skip the base and instead went to Base O on Danco Island (also unmanned since 1959), which they dismantled and removed.

Thankfully, this has left Base W virtually untouched over the last 50 years. Nearly everything is exactly as it was left by the residents scrambling to gather all items of value before they had to evacuate. The result is an incredible snapshot into the past. There are no velvet ropes, restored diorama or placards, just the reality preserved by the respect of the very small number of people who have had the good fortune and cooperative weather to facilitate the journey to this outpost.

Thanks to Antarctica's cold dry climate and the protection of the icy bay, most of the contents of Base W remain exactly where they were left. A few things have been pulled out of drawers and laid out by past visitors, but according the the visitors log the last visitors to base W arrived almost one year ago, 1/16/08: 11 passengers from the Delacio Australis.

Antarctic Refreshments - So apparently someone in the group had the munchies and asked for a quick snack, and then we found out that we were heading out for an excursion before it was quite finished. Jerome had made us bruschetta and was determined we have it so he handed the tray off to Rob who served us as we are getting ready to leave. Actually the first zodiac (we were on) had already headed out and turned back and pulled up next to the second zodiac (where Rob is standing) so we could snag bruschetta. Yes, you could say they spoiled us. And if you said that, we couldn't disagree with you at all! - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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View of the Ice - There were a few open spots in the ice, and it was a beautiful day! - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Treacherous Beauty - Most of the snow bank all around Detaille Island was densely covered in these icicles. It was beautiful, but not something you wanted to be standing under. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Base W - Open For Business - The abandoned Base W, preserved in the cold, dry antarctic. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Discovering Abandoned Base - - Photo by Antarctic Fox
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Workshop

Just left of Entrance were two rooms made impassable by snow. They seemed to be a workshop, storage and possibly a bar as well.

Snowed In - Some roof damage caused several rooms to have gathered snow inside. We couldn't get any further into the rooms in this direction. I believe they were mostly the workshop and possible a bar. Base W was abandoned by the British in 1959 with only 1 hour to make their ship, so much of the contents were left as is. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Brown Glass - Old used bottles left in the abandoned workshop of Base W in Antarctica. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Hard Gloss Paint - Paint cans holding their own after 50 years of desolation in crumbling Base W, Antarctica. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Parker Hale Young's 303 Bore Solvent - Still available today (in different packaging, this is a solvent for cleaning the bore (barrel) of a rifle. Not sure how good a job this particular tin's worth would do though! - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Lime Juice - Tequila and salt not included. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Semicentennial Buffered Analgesics? - An unlabeled bottle of pills that has kept up pretty well, stoppered against the elements. Headache, anyone? - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Hubbuck & Son's Linseed Oil Putty - A quick Google search found that Hubbuck & Sons existed back before 1895, but didn't survive to the present. Also: Putty! - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Together Forever - Nothing can wrench these two apart. Their marriage has lasted over 50 years! - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Saw - Hopefully this wasn't part of the Doctor's equipment. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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"Prevents Rust & Tarnish" - One can only assume the inside of this tin is sparkling clean. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Fire Extinguisher - From the earliest days of the Antarctic bases everyone was clear that fire was the single greatest enemy. I've never seen so many people trained in fire management and so many supplies for that purpose than on Antarctic bases and, 50 years after they unexpectedly abandoned the place, Base W was no exception with at least six fire extinguishers in plain sight. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Entry Hall

At the entry a hall heads off along the building on the right. To the left is a door to the workshop shown above. The hall to the right has shelving all along the ceiling. Rooms only exist on the left hand side. To the right is the outer wall with several windows looking out on the snow and yard.

Left Behind - When winter supplies were unable to be delivered due to the bay at Detaille Island being iced in, crew of the base were ordered to abandon the base in one hour. Preserved since 1959 the contents of the base provide a glimpse into the past. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Power Circuits - For the lights and scientific equipment! - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Barracks

First room on the left in as you head down the hall from the front door.

Barracks - Complete with a spare jacket on the peg. The silence is just eerie, like whispers from the past through the tan dust. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Barracks Two - The other side of the room, with stacked supplies and a handmade scrabble board. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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What's for Dinner? - Mystery tins in the closet. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Still Life with Jug and Screw - Chiaroscuro beauty. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Antarctica - Triple Word Score - Homemade scrabble board abandoned in 1959, Base W, Antarctica. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Fresh Air since 1959 - Part of an abandoned bedroom in Base W, Antarctica. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Ghosts - It was an eerie feeling walking through this base that few had visited since it was abandoned in 1959. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Naval Message NF 23 PSY ETAT 184 8 0900= - The message reads: "Recent Mails received from bases have disclosed several irregularities with regard to despatching mails and treatment of remittances by postal order and reply coupons [stop] All bases should ensure that stamps are properly cancelled with official ink provided see para 2(1) k(2) (B) [stop] Postal orders received must be signed by payee and bear date stamp of base at bottom left corner see para 5 [stop] Reply coupons can only be exchanged at following rates foreign fivepence and commonwealth twopence half ----- not threepence as shewn on cont....." Kevin has another view of this message here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/person/3449865330 - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Ever Ready... - Items left behind when Base W in Antarctica was abandoned in the 50's. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Mandarin Black - Writing supplies from 1959. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Decaying Since 1959 - Chipped and fading bits left behind in the remains of Base W in Antarctica. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Attic Workroom

Second door on the left in the main hall is actually a small alcove with several supplies and a ladder up to an attic. You walk through a dark storage area to this bright workroom at the end with one window over looking the bay. This room contains items that lead us to believe the researcher, doing working in geology and studying glaciers was also possibly the doctor and/or a chemist.

In the Attic - The doctor's office was up in the attic, through a dark gloomy storage space filled with cans. The disarray here is plain: Sifting the valuable from that which can be abandoned. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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...to the past - Left still hanging on the wall since 1959. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Glaciology Work - I love the paperwork and research supplies left behind in this work room, part of the attic in Base W. Abandoned in 1959, this Antarctic base was left in much in its original condition as the researchers only had one hour to evacuate. You may be able to read this report from Kevin's photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/person/3449865522 - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Pentothal - A general-purpose intravenous anesthetic, Pentothal was a staple of the remote doctor. Several phials were left behind. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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The Best View in the Base - The view out of the Doctor's room, withthe pane's spiralled latches and a desolate icescape beyond, was one of the best-framed shots I saw the whole trip. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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STORE IN A COOL DRY DARK PLACE - Like a window sill in Antarctica. Dried Human Plasma left in the window of the abandoned lab of Base W. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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(Water) - Geological research supplies left behind at Base W, Antarctica. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Sawbones - I'd be a little worried, seeing this on the Doctor's workbench. Hopefully there's a tetanus shot in one of the drawers. By the 1950s, tetanus vaccinations had been around for about a decade. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Attic Storage

Leaving the workroom you have to pause to adjust to the dark in the main attic room which was used for storage. Mostly containing cans of food, but also some larger supplies like a gurney. Heading back the way you had come toward the middle of the large room there is a hole in the floor with a ladder. Descending this ladder will again place you in the main hall of the building.

Ghosts of the Present - Long exposure of the attic space between the ladder and the Doctor's room. Rusted cans and peeling paint gave this room a post-apocalyptic feel. - Photo by Kevin Fox
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Stacked - Supplies in the attic of Base W, Antarctica. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Stocking Up - The attic and cupboards all through Base W contained stacks of cans, bottles, etc containing food and supplies of all kinds to keep the crew of base W well supplied. Even though there seems to be quite a few supplies left behind, there is not enough to comfortably survive a winter in Antarctica. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Custard Anyone? - A cot or emergency gurney is left laying on the floor below shelves of Duff's Custard line the attic of Base W. I'm not sure who thought, "What they need in Antarctica is lots of custard! And lots of different flavors too " It seems a strange item to have so much of (there are additional stacks of the custard on the floor too). Possible it was just a staple in 1959 Brittan. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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Antarctic Brand Names - A valuable asset in Antarctica, now this Thermos is left to rust away with the rest of Base W. - Photo by Rachel Lea Fox
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It was true magic to walk through the past captured inside this base.

Read the next chapter: Day 7: Abandoned Antarctica: Base W - Part 2

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