WARNING - Some of the photos in this post are very graphic. If you would rather not see the Antarctic Food Chain in action we suggest you skip this post.
After leaving our Gentoo and Adelie penguin friends on Petermann Island, we proceeded to the Penola Straight for some afternoon kayaking. We had three inflatable double Kayaks to share among the twelve of us, so we split into two groups, and Kevin and I were in the second group of kayakers. Rob and Tim took the zodiacs loaded with the first group of kayakers to a landing spot to get situated on the kayaks, and Rob came back in one zodiac to take us second-shifters for a zodiac cruise while we waited our turn.
We were ready to go and waiting on the back of the ship when Rob came zooming up in the zodiac, very excited. On his way back he had seen a leopard seal eating his kill and he wanted to get us there quickly so maybe we could catch it. We loaded in and off we went to see if there was any action, something we were both excited and sad about.
We came in close to the shore near a gentoo colony and found the leopard seal nearby, but he seemed to be done with whatever kill he had previously caught and was just swimming around. Rob told us that a leopard seal can take down 3 to 5 penguins for one meal so we should hang out and watch for a while.
As we waited, we watched the penguins on the shore. A big survival mechanism most penguins share is to approach the water in a group and jump in together, to provide a more confusing target for predators, and to not be isolated. We watched a group of about ten gentoo penguins approach the water's edge, hovering on the brink, nobody wanting to be first because of the possibility that they'll be the only one to jump. After several false starts by the ones on the edge, a few dive in at once, and several more quickly follow.
Near the end of the line, the last four penguins suddenly stop, turn around, and ran back up the rocks. The five of us in the zodiac laughed and made jokes about the 'scardy-cat penguins'.
Seconds later we saw the leopard seal burst from the water with a penguin in his mouth. One of the penguins that just moments ago we were watching and cheering on into the water. We all shut up fast.
Watching the feeding process was both mesmerizing and horrifying, not just to us but also to the penguins who sat on the rocks and watched along with us. It was pretty clear they knew just how close a call they just had.
We were told that leopard seals are like cats in that they play with their prey before eating it, and we witnessed it to be true. The leopard would release the partially stunned penguin, then grab it again when it would start moving, toying with the poor penguin. Eventually though, he got down to business.
In order to remove the skin and feathers from the penguin, the leopard seal bites down on the penguin's feet, breaks the surface of the water, and slaps the penguin hard on the surface of the water over and over. Eventually when the skin ruptures the leopard can get at the good bits inside and enjoy his meal.
We floated along in the area for the next 25 minutes watching the entire process as the leopard seal skinned, de-feathered and ate the kill.
Back at the gentoo colony, life goes on. More penguins were queuing up to jump in to the water, and somewhere amidst the nests there was a penguin whose mate wouldn't be coming back and who would in a matter of days have to abandon the chicks, unable to protect and feed them alone.
Nobody said living in the Antarctic was easy, even (especially) for a penguin.
Don't worry though. Antarctica isn't all about penguins and death. Sometimes (like later this evening) it's about Ukrainian vodka and brassieres...
Read the next chapter: Day 4: Kayak
Table of Contents:
Introduction: Telling the Story posted Jan 10, 2009
Day 0: Positioning posted Jan 12, 2009
Leaving, on a jet plane posted Jan 12, 2009
Day 1: The Herc posted Jan 15, 2009
Day 1: Penguino posted Jan 16, 2009
Day 2: Chicken posted Jan 17, 2009
Day 2: Leopard posted Jan 19, 2009
Day 2: Snow Day posted Jan 22, 2009
Day 2: Shipwreck posted Jan 26, 2009
Day 2: Totally Tabular posted Jan 27, 2009
Day 3: Gentoo Cute posted Jan 29, 2009
Day 3: Lichen Shag Glacier posted Feb 3, 2009
Day 3: Palmer Station Visit posted Feb 9, 2009
Day 4: Icy Penguins posted Feb 11, 2009
Day 4: Adelie Awesome posted Feb 15, 2009
» Day 4: Leopard Seal Attack posted Feb 17, 2009
Day 4: Kayak posted Feb 19, 2009
Day 4: Vernadsky Station Visit posted Feb 23, 2009
Day 4: Vernadsky Sunset posted Feb 25, 2009
Day 5: Antarctic Circle posted Feb 27, 2009
Day 5: Polar Plunge posted Mar 5, 2009
Day 5: Mouth of The Gullet posted Mar 13, 2009
Day 5: Ice Camping posted Mar 18, 2009
Day 6: Flamingos on Ice posted Mar 20, 2009
Day 6: Mountain Climbing posted Mar 24, 2009
Day 6: Ice Textures posted Mar 26, 2009
Day 6: Antarctic New Years posted Apr 2, 2009
Day 7: Crystal Sound Icebreaker posted Apr 9, 2009
Day 7: Abandoned Antarctica: Base W - Part 1 posted Apr 17, 2009
Day 7: Abandoned Antarctica: Base W - Part 2 posted Apr 21, 2009
Day 8: Bird Watching in the Fish Islands posted Apr 23, 2009
Day 8: Icee Day - Part 1 posted May 5, 2009
Day 8: Icee Day - Part 2 posted May 11, 2009
Day 9: Port Lockroy - Base A posted May 20, 2009
Bonus Chapter: Baby Penguins! posted May 21, 2009
Day 9: Antarctic Humpback Whales posted June 3, 2009
Day 9: Dallmann Butt Sliding posted June 11, 2009
Day 10: Birthday Whales posted June 23, 2009
Day 10: Hannah Point Part 1: The Birds posted July 15, 2009
Day 10: Hannah Point Part 2: Elephant Seals posted July 22, 2009
Day 10: Deception Island - Part 1: Walking on the Moon posted Dec 11, 2009
Day 10: Deception Island - Part 2: The Martian Chronicles of Oz posted Dec 15, 2009
Day 11: Emperor Penguins posted Jan 8, 2010
Day 12: Black and White and Pink All Over posted Aug 4, 2011
More chapters posted every few days...
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